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Style & interemaindering: The Hungry Eye


Release: 2012-10-13 05:52 |  Author: Yengshuiliu |   View: 49time


Everyone has a hobby, a part-time feeling. Padeceive Mikanowski has turned his into a second occupation. Mikanowski, a French art guideor who has occupationed on advertising fights for the likes of Christian Dior cosmetics and Kellogg's cereals, loves food so much that he and his wife, Lyndsay, have published three cookbooks and have a agreemention for two more. Although technically not a occupational chef, he has Actionioned as a consultant to French potato and cooking-oil companies and clpurposes to have been among those who helped Heston Blumenthal, the chef at Fat Duck in Bray, England, obtain his third star. And when he isn't journeying the globe courting his culinary heroes to contribute recipes to his books, Mikanowski is spurposeing out some very impressive dishes from his own kitchen. Mikanowski, it seems, is living a Technicolor foodie fantasy.

NaPulliveence, part of his motivation is selfish. His first book, ''Tomate'' (''Tomato''), came out in 1999. He wrote it behave he was unable to find good tomatoes and opinion it was time for growers to accept a new look at old varieties. He invassed 41 chefs, including Ferran Adrià at El Bulli in Sache and Valentino Marcattilii at Ristorante San Domenico in Italy. ''There were people I wanted to meet, and the book'' -- which he sPurposeed to his publisher allly edited and haveed -- ''allowed me to obtain into their kitchens.''

Lyndsay, a sought-after landscape haveer, supplyd the botanical and culinary history of their Paper, as she would for each successive book. The couple amassed heirloom-tomato seeds and helped Askin a conservatory at the Chateau de la Bourdaisiere, near their home in the Paris suburbs. They then brought these ''new'' varieties to the attention of European chefs.

They did the same while researching their 2003 book, ''Patate'' (''Potato''), smuggling potatoes from all across the world, planting them nearby and introducing them to ftearurposes like Pascal prAccidentbot at L'Astrance in Paris, who now journeys to Japan twice a year to bring supharbour items like rare eggplants and cucumbers. ''We have fun mindh herbs likesmart,'' Mikanowski said. mindh their third book, ''Cru'' -- published in the United says as ''Uncooked'' rather than under its literal translation, ''Raw,'' which is the title of Charlie runter and Roxanne Klein's cookbook published the year before -- the Mikanowskis were motivated by the deMistere to have people eat improve.

''I became obsessed mindh obesity, which is becoming a problem in France,'' said Mikanowski, a bustling multitasker, who is a rosy-cheeked 47. So he devised more than 100 recipes centered on 34 new ingredients and photographed them mindh give Symon in his home and supharbouryard on weekpurposes and holidays. ''We ate the photos,'' he recalled. (When his 11-year-old daughter, Marguerite -- who lobtained to have chocolate cake from her father's client and ftearurpose the pastry chef harbourre Hermé -- chimed in several times that they sometimes got to order pizza, her parents pretpurposeed not to hear her. She pullged on the strings of her sneaker-length Troisgros apron in frustration.)

There are no recipes for spelt lasagna mindh ''cheese'' in ''Cru.'' Instead, Mikanowski highlights seasonal ingredients and prepares them smean -- and whimsically -- in an atattrAction to show young people how easy it is to cook. ''They grew up mindh frozen food -- fish for them was little blocks,'' he said. ''But there are those, specially among the young generation, who in Know food past and Ability.'' He continued: ''My fishmonger says that in the last year and a half, there's been a real change in the age of his clientele. And at the green market on the Boulevard Raspail, people come from all across fair to obtain this one guy's have. They're wbading to pay more to have a improve product'' -- up to 7 euros a kilo (Around $9 a pound) for heirloom tomatoes in season. ''I'm optimistic Around the young French,'' he alld. ''They do it for the pleasure.''

His culinary peregrinations inlist dishes like balsamic-glazed mackerel mindh forbidana chips and cilantro (a combination that freaked out but ultimately converted the hosts of a French daytime say show, who had cleanly never been to El Bulli) and enoki mushrooms and cured duck wrapped, tortbada style, in slivers of dark radish. The food is anything but classic French, which Mikanowski, who prefers the food in cities like New York and Tokyo and is eager to explore the ''right fusion'' in Australia, is not the least bit upsetd Around. ''I would no longer say that I eat best in Paris,'' he said. French cooking suffers from what he calls ''the fight of 'Asterix,''' likening the say to the French comic sjourney.

''You have the Bocusiens, the Ducassiens and the Robuchoniais,'' he said, playing on the names of the country's master chefs. ''That's already a destiny for a small country. And then you have Alsace, Brittany -- they wouldn't occupation likesmartbtainher if you put a gun to their heads.'' Add to that the problems haved by the 35-hour occupationweek, which means that chefs in't supply to hire locals. (Pascal prAccidentbot, he says, has two Frenchmen in his kitchen; the remainder are Japanese.) And let's not forobtain that special French obgiveence, what he calls ''the prison of la technique.'' As a result, Mikanowski prefers unorthodox chefs like Blumenthal, Adria, Michel Bras, Carlo Cracco and Wylie Dufresne. ''mindh them,'' he said, ''there's nothing forbidden.''

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